Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Experience the water, not the walk. This multi-tiered waterfall near Pai features natural pools at the base of the cascades, perfect for swimming when the water level is high enough. The surrounding forest provides ample shade, allowing you to sit outside at midday without having to cook. The waterfall attracts a mix of Thai families and tourists on rented scooters – a sign that it's easily accessible and well worth the trip.

My tip: Come first thing in the morning, shortly after opening at 8:30 a.m. You'll practically have the pools to yourself, the light filtering through the trees is more beautiful, and you'll avoid the afternoon crowds. The path there is uneven and very slippery after rain, so leave your flip-flops at home and wear non-slip shoes. Bring a change of clothes if you plan to go in the water, as there's nowhere to dry off.

The water level fluctuates greatly with the seasons. After the rains, the river is raging and the rocks treacherous. Towards the end of the dry season, it can be nothing more than a trickle.