Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Most hikers stop at the first waterfall, find it pleasant, and turn back. That's a mistake. The lower reaches of the stream are about 50 meters from the starting point, and the real hike only begins after that: roughly 20 minutes over rocks, concrete steps, and a narrow jungle path that follows the stream, passing by a series of pools. Further upstream, the water is clearer than down below, and its rushing sound accompanies you the entire way.

It's a perfect fit for the village of Mae Kampong, where the climb begins. You can walk up the paved road, a steady two-kilometer ascent with views and a coffee break or two along the way, or take a pickup jeep for about 20 THB per person. The ride is steep and bumpy, but it saves your legs for the actual climb. My tip: Take the jeep up, walk down through the village, and visit the wooden temple along the way.