Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

If possible, go at 4:30 a.m. That's when the park opens, the air is coolest, and you'll experience the authentic atmosphere: Tai Chi groups, joggers, people who have been coming here for decades. By midday, it gets very hot, and shade under the trees is highly sought after.

The monitor lizards are the reason most people remember this place. Large Asian water monitors roam the paths and glide into the lake as if they own the entire park. And in a way, they do. Add to that stray cats, a variety of birds, and musicians playing near the lawns, and the park is more alive than you'd expect from a well-maintained city park. Visitors mention free boats and kayaks for short periods on the lake, as well as bicycles available for rent at the entrance if the walk is too far. The grounds are extensive, so comfortable shoes and light clothing are recommended. Bangkok's sweltering heat is relentless.

On Loy Krathong night, the full moon evening in November, the park in Bangkok stays open late into the night. Families float their krathongs on the lake, making it the most peaceful spot in central Bangkok for this celebration. Bring a banana leaf krathong; foam krathongs, fireworks, and alcohol are not permitted in the park on this night.