Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

For a bit more money than in the small shops around Chiang Rai, the Siam Triangle Hotel on Phaholyothin Road offers a quieter and better-organized atmosphere. According to reviews, it costs about twice as much as the cheap street prices, but that still comes to around 300 baht for a basic Thai massage. That's where I'd start. A 90-minute oil massage costs 600 baht, and there's a package including a one-hour body scrub and a one-hour deep tissue massage with oil for 1,000 baht.

Two honest points to note: The therapists aren't always reliable, and more than one guest has had the problem of being assigned someone still in training. The good news is that the owner takes it in stride. One guest asked to switch mid-treatment and received their full two hours again. Before lying down, state your preferred pressure and ask for the therapist's name if someone has been recommended to you. The shower included with the scrub package is basic, and the water can be cool—so don't expect too much.