Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Come for the food and the boat trip, not for the boats selling from the water. These have become less common over the years, and today restaurants and stalls line the canal, many grilling seafood to order instead of offering cheap snacks. Those expecting rows of vendors paddling up with noodles will be disappointed. However, those looking for a cozy wooden village along a narrow khlong, grilled river shrimp, Thai sweets, and a relaxing evening will have a wonderful time.

The boat trips are what I would absolutely insist on. During the day, a shared boat trip to the temples along the river costs 50 baht per person or 500 baht for the whole boat. After dark, boats depart for the glowworms for 60 baht per person or 600 baht for a chartered boat. The glowworms are best seen on moonless nights from May to October. The shared boats only leave once six or seven people have signed up, so you might have to wait a while at the dock.

The market is open from Friday to Sunday and on public holidays. Some stalls open earlier, but the market itself starts around 2:00 PM and lasts until about 9:00 PM. Fridays are quieter. On Saturdays and Sundays, visitors flock from Bangkok; the paths are narrow, and some sections of the canal lack railings, making the crowds quite unpleasant. Admission is free.

Amphawa is located in Samut Songkhram, about a 90-minute drive from central Bangkok. Minivans depart from the southern bus station (Sai ​​Tai Mai), with the last ones leaving around 7:00 to 8:00 PM, just before the firefly boats depart. Stay overnight with a local family along the canal or rent a car for the return trip. A cheaper and more leisurely alternative is the Maeklong Railway (around 23 baht), from which you can take a songthaew for the last 7 to 10 km. In the afternoon, consider visiting the Maeklong Railway Market.